AN ORDINARY MTB RIDE IN THE ALPS..

TMB / VTT 19th - 21st September 2018

3 days-stages / 182km / Elevation gain 6943mt / Calories burned 9650 / No mechanicals / No crashes / Total awe

When I decided to move to Chamonix permanently in December ‘17, I set myself a few “things to do” goals. The TMB was one of them.

After reading and researching about the TMB I felt compelled to do it simply because of the adventurous nature of the trip.

The TMB is a very famous hiking trail that follow a specific and almost fixed route. It officially starts from Les Houches, going counter clockwise over to Les Contamines, then over to Italy into Val Veny - Courmayeur - Val Ferret and into Switzerland to continue towards Trient, back into France at Col de Balme and then Chamonix.

In the last few years it has gained popularity amongst the Mtb community too and this kind of mtbiking is what interests me. I am not really into BikePark - lift assisted kind of mtbiking. To me real mtbiking is about exploring new places, riding new trails and meet new people along the way.

Day 1:

Les Tines - La Fouly

I generally don’t wake up at stupid hours BUT...when I have to be somewhere very early in the morning..be it work, a meeting or a group ride / trail run, I always make the effort to go to bed early, set the alarm for 5am, go to bed and hopefully wake up when the alarm goes off.

..and the Sun came up, coffee was drunk, final bike checks and..just like that, I was off.

The good thing of living in Les Tines is the trails are literally outside my front door..BUT..the downside is..my body is too cold and still sleeping. Pedalling up the super steep section of the trail de l’Arve with stone cold legs ain’t funny, trust me!

So, I had no choice but to push the bike. Once I got to the top I encountered two stroppy runners who were too worried about looking cool and too focused on their training to say “bonjour” back to me. Oh well..

Once in Argentiere, pain au chocolate pit stop and up I go again towards Le Tour..this time I opted for the easier option: tarmac.

Second pit stop in Le Tour by the Cable car lift station and then the dredging and feared climb. Steep, relentless and cold as the Sun has yet to reach that side of the valley.

Ahead of me I spotted a mtbiker dressed in black and riding a completely black bike (“wow” I thought to myself, “this guy really can match a colour”). As my bike and my backpack were too heavy I had to push my bike on the steepest sections.

I knew the 4x4 track would flatten a bit at the top station of the cable car and also, on this kind of tour one has to ride smart.

Once I reached the top, I didn’t stop. I carried on and..there he was. The mtbiker I saw earlier had clearly stopped for some food and drink. By this time the Sun finally decided to make an appearance and it was great to feel the warmth of its rays on the skin.

I caught up with the mtbiker (his name is Pierre) and we rode side by side up Col de Balme chatting in French (in my broken French I should point out) about bikes and riding in the valley.

After a gruelling and digger avoiding ride up the Col we reached the refuge de Cold de Balme which is situated right on the French / Swiss border and the view at that time of the day was just breathtaking. Clear skies, not a cloud in sight and the whole Chamonix Valley looked so calm and picturesque. I never been up there so early in the morning, definitely an experience.

Pierre and I said our goodbyes as he was going to ride a different trail than me.

Helmet and gloves on; backpack trapped and secured; bike ready; 1-2-3..let’s go :-)

The trail down to Trient is the official TMB trail. It was early morning so just after 1 min of descent I came across the first TMB hikers. I had to stop to fix the bar extension I had my sleeping bag strapped on. The second hiker’s couple came up to me and asked me “are you having a mechanical problem?” “Oh, no no..it’s all good thanks” I replied. On the way down again two more hikers and this time they stopped me to chat about what was I doing and “isn’t too dangerous for you on a Mtb?” After telling them that after all I was riding a mtb in the mountains I told them I was riding the TMB and both of them looked at me in a completely shocked expression. I laughed, they laughed and we said goodbye. Funny encounters indeed. More hikers, more bonjours and more slowing down. A few grumpy hikers and a cool group of three girls whoowhooing me as I rode past them jumping from rock to rock. Rock and Roll baby :-)

Fast and super techie single track all the way down to Trient. Rocks, roots and switchbacks. Brakes on most of the times, concentration levels to 90/100 and let the bike roll.

In no time I was down to Trient base camp, a quick food and toilet stop at the public campsite then on the bike again and up towards Col de Forclaz. Steep but easy off road to the pass, decided to stop again for a sandwich at the bar/restaurant strategically located at the top of the col. I have been up Col de Forlcaz many times on my road bike but from this point onwards, the route I was following on my Garmin was going to be completely new. The experience of riding a new trail and seeing new places is what I look forward the most. That sense of exploration which is ingrained in our DNA is the driving force that pushes me forward.

The trail didn’t disappoint for sure as it started to gently increase its steepness pushing the bike rather than riding it, I ended up in a quite Alpage / Chalet. I was the only human being around. Compulsory water break followed by a few pictures and then up again, following the arrow on the gps device.

Only a few pedal strokes and I was off the bike again, pushing and carrying the bike on my shoulder for what felt like “forever”..the trail changed as well: from damp, wet and slippery right off Col de Forclaz to a dry, rocky and super dusty DH world cup worthy section that ended up finishing on a knife edge ridge with incredible views over Martigny and the Rhône Valley below to the left and Val de Bagnes and Verbier to the right.

From that point onward it was all about the downhill. It started off very steep, twisty and super dusty and after a few meters it became fast and flowy. Good thing was that most of the TMB hikers were all having their packed lunch at a buvette, so it was a pleasure to roll down and admiring the trails & view rather than watching out for hikers. All that changed too soon when the trail became steep, rocky and super technical..a bit challenging riding a bike with a very small dry bag strapped on the handlebar. It wasn’t restrictive or limiting at all but having just about 2kg more over the front wheel felt quite weird.

So, the trail: Tnx God for moder, full suspension enduro mtb, otherwise it would have been much harder and an absolute hellish experience.

Switch backs after switch backs the trail suddenly flattened a bit and I met the first mtbikers of the trip, and the only mtbikers I encountered actually. A group of 6 Polish guys riding fine machines and carrying backpacks in my opinion too full and bulky..still, it was very nice to meet fellow mtbikers. We exchanged hellos and a quick chat about our trips and then made my way to the front of the group and led the way. The trail continued on the same level of gnarliness and technicality until I actually had to stop, dismount the bike and cross a torrent on foot, carrying the bike on my shoulder. Luckily there wasn’t much water rushing down the mountain torrent so it was an easy task (also, Tnx to the Vibram sole on my mtb shoes) to walk across the torrent to the other side of the trail. A couple of minutes have passed and no sign of the Polish mtb gang. I decided to hop on the bike and carry on and right after 20 meters I had to repeat the same “hike a bike” thingy (only slightly easier). The techy trail ended and a 4x4 gravel road opened up in front of me. It was such amazing to just let the bike roll at full speed and enjoying a fast descent, for sure.

As the gravel road continued my gps started to beep loudly, obvious sign I wasn’t on the route. So, hammer the brakes, massive skids, turn around and pedal uphill to the point I was supposed to turn. Luckily I only had to pedal back 50 meters, phew :-)

My gps device was happy again as it made the distinctive happy sound of “route found”..whoop whoop :-)

It was now a single track into the gorgeous pine forest on the outskirts of Champex Lac. Easy rolling trail towards the lake with incredible views. A quick coffee/cake/water bottle refill stop and I was quickly on my way again.

The trail continued into the forest, from an easy rolling trail it gradually became steep, off camber, incredibly dusty / loose and quite tricky in places. I binned into a small group of 4 hikers and the look on their faces seeing a mtbiker riding downhill was priceless :-) / I stopped for a quick chat. They were from the US, hiking the TMB as part of their European tour.

After a few minutes of treacherous riding, I ended up at a crossroad: quick look at the gps route and noticed that by bypassing the actual (continuously) steep route, I could have taken the road to my left descending to the same main road further down the valley. A quick decision and option two won :-)

A quick and fast descent was the better way to descend :-)

I was now on the main road connecting Orsiere to La Fouly. A short section of a gentle gradient uphill tarmac road and before I knew, I was into the forest once again. This time in complete shade with steep and sheer high peaks to my right hand side and a wide river to my left.

Rocky, technical, up & down! It was quite impossible to catch a breath and by this time of the day (almost 4:30pm) I started to feel tired and fatigued..but I kept pedalling and moving forward :-)

Finally the trail gave way to a wide rolling 4x4 track that led me to a car park: as I emerged onto the main road I was in La Fouly. Happy, exhausted, thrilled to have made it this far in one single push.

The next challenge was:

1. do I carry on until Rifugio Elena?

Or

     B) Do I stop in La Foully for the night?

After spending what felt like an eternity consulting the map/gps, asking a few locals and checking Booking.com I decided to stay locally in La Foully. I found a cheap room in a local hostel. Conveniently located “en route”, it made perfect sense. I also hoped the group of Polish mtbiker I met earlier on would stop at the same place..but even if they didn’t I am sure I was going to meet them the next day somewhere on the trail.

The hostel Maya Joie is a great place. The concept and business is built around the TMB hiking market and offers every facility hikers and what not need: large dormitory rooms to private rooms; communal showers with individual cubicles; free breakfast and the possibility to have dinner at an extra cost. Above all, it’s immaculately clean. Very very very unusual for a hostel.

The owner, Maya, was really charming and welcoming. On arrival, there was a free drink and cake welcome, with a really nice note “welcoming tired hikers”. I thought that was a really nice touch.

An early dinner (pizza - beer) meant an early night. And oh boy I was in need of a good night sleep.

The distance I covered during the day wasn’t massively long but the effort I had to put in was immensely greater.

Day 2:

La Fouly - Cormet de Roselend / Passing by through Italy.

Beep beep beep beep…

6am wake up call. Slept like a baby. Woke up refreshed and ready to tackle the day ahead :-)

Breakfast first though! Home made bread and preserves, decent coffee, yoghurt and cereals to fill up the tank.

1,2,3..boom. Time to go. If only my host was able to unlock the garage door so I could grab my bike and go. After 10 long minutes of jiggling the key etc we were able to open the door. My blue steed was safely waiting for me.

Garmin on; seat post up; clipping in; off I go.

Re entering the route was a breeze. It won’t be a breeze until I get to the Swiss - Italian border though. From now on it will be uphill..

And so day 2 begins.

Gentle uphill tarmac road from La Foully through a tiny village with a nice looking hotel and a restaurant / bar. Should have stopped there last night?! Maybe. 

As the road kept climbing, it went through a stunning coniferous forest almost made it like a tree tunnel.

I could see the light at the end of the tree-lined road and all of a sudden it opened up to a stunning valley inhabited only by a few cows and farmers.

Tarmac gave way to gravel and before I know it I was cycling up the wrong way..quick turn around to take the right turn.

The gravel / 4X4 road started to punch me in the face from the very beginning..relentlessly steep and demanding. 42 all the way trying to keep my legs lactic acid free. It was a challenge!

As the gravel road progressed, the views became more stunning by the minute.

The valley to my left looked like a humongous amphitheatre with high peaks bordering with the Grand Saint Bernard. 

On the way up, right at the end of the road, there is a little farm that also serve as a TMB rest / food point. They offer dormitory-style rooms and provide a half board service and also a bar and restaurant service. 

Sadly for me it was too early in the morning and they weren’t open yet. :-( I was desperately in need for a coffee..or a tea..or both :-)

Anyway..from now on, it was going to be super tough. The high alpine trail starts and it will be “hike a bike” for a while. Not the entire way, just a few steep and gnarly sections.

The trail was amazing though. Hard packed, single track heaven. Rolling, steep, semi-flat, banked corners and more..and all of it entirely natural. The only man-made features were rain channels built at regular intervals. These channels have the purpose to prevent and mitigate the natural damage/erosion played by rainfall. If high alpine trails didn’t have these barriers, the rain would destroy them completely.

The way up was intense but the views were superb..only once I reached the very top, Grand Col Ferret, the border between Switzerland and Italy, the views on the glaciers and peaks to my right were Godly amazing. GCF sits at roughly 2500mt high so it felt like I could have easily touched those glaciers and alpine peaks. A true spectacle.

From now it was all downhill to Courmayeur. I had two options: taking the tough route or the easier one. I opted for the easier one that followed the valley floor all the way to Entreves and Courmayeur. I was pressed with time as I only had 3 available days of riding. An easier route but non the less amazing. I had time to just chill and enjoy the views.

Once in Courmayeur I knew it was going to be uphill all the way to Col de la Seigne, the border between Italy and France.

As I approached Courmayeur I stopped for a sandwich and a coke and I pressed on. It was now 11:30am and I knew I had a good 5-6 hours of riding ahead of me.

Quick tarmac blast downhill then it was a sharp almost 90 degree turn to the right and..guess what? Uphill..tarmac. Helmet off, Buff over head on and uphill mode switched on.

The road felt quite easy..I found my rhythm so I was able to just pedal and focus on it rather than worry about time - sunshine etc.

The views. Let me tell you..the views on the Italian side are wilder than I thought they were going to be. Wild glaciers, raging torrents, scary and menacing alpine peaks staring at you..it almost overwhelming. The sense of scale is almost too difficult to put into perspective or understand. The road now turned left and followed alongside the Val Veny and in the very distance I had a glimpse of the Col de la Seigne..far way.

Yet again, I decided to take the valley floor route and skip the high alpine trails. The road was now a gentle gradient, tarmac, no traffic, no one around. Amazing to think that on the other side of the Mt Blanc massif lies Chamonix, a busy all year town with everything that resonates with that: traffic, people, pollution etc.. Here though, not a soul in sight. A few campsite and chalets dotted around. The occasional car going past me, then the forest silence again. The noise of the ravaging torrents and tweeting birds. The fragrances of flowers and pine trees. I was immersed in it. I was riding through a place I have never been to before, in probably the best period of the year.

Now the road, guess what, started to climb again. Easy switch backs that took me to a “do not cross” red and white bar across the road. At least I thought, from now on..no motorised traffic was allowed and knowing this is quite helpful because there is one less thing to worry about: cars and lorries and vans and motorbikes.

The quality of the road deteriorated as soon as I passed the bar. It was hot, I was in the full exposure of the Sun light and..oops..I was almost running out of water. What do I do? I walk down to the river below (too risky); find a fountain (not a fountain insight); or ask the first hikers I will encounter? Option three it was and thank God a group of American hikers had a lot of spare water. Their hiking day was done so they were very kind to give me all of their water. Result. Water bottle filled up, sugar mix added and off I went. Surprisingly (or not, really), that water bottled lasted me only 15mins :-(

Luckily I met yet another kind soul, this time an elderly French hiker and he gave me half of his water for me to replenish my water bottle. He also told from then on it was easier to find water sources. Plenty of streams ahead and also a refuge which was still open. The rifugio Elisabetta Soldini, the last human presence until the top of the Col de la Seigne.

The valley now was becoming more like a landscape one can easily find in Kazakhstan rather then the Wester Italian Alps. It was just mesmerizing. I met a few hikers along the way but no one else on a bike. Zero. It was a bit strange because I felt somehow “alone” and like a true explorer.

The trail also started to change: from rocky gravel to a hard packed, single track, shaped by thousands of hikers stomping on the ground. Also, rainfall had a massive impact in shaping and digging trofs all along the trail. Some sections were rideable but most if it had to be “hike a bike” or “portage” like the French say.

Finally, I could see the top and the gradient became easier..so. I hopped on my bike and wheely the last few meters to the stone structure marking the geographical border between the two Countries to the cheers of a group of hikers..rock and roll.

The views were spectacular: I could see almost all the way back to GFC and thinking that I was there in the morning was quite insane :-O 

Ahead of me..there was la Vallee’ the Glaces basking in a ray of glorious late summer sunshine. I didn’t know what to expect really. I had a snack and a drink, put on my wind jacket and I set off.

Almost immediately I understood this was going to be super fun and flowy trail to ride. I had the biggest smile on my face because my feelings were confirmed by every meter I rode. This as so far, the best trail I had ever ridden: fast, smooth, technical, full of natural features and above all..no one around. No hikers, no mtbikers. No animals. It was pure enjoyment. 10 mins of pure fun that I still remember vividly :-)

All good things, eventually, come to an end. The fun stopped when the trail joined a gravel road and I rode into (almost) a herd of cows. That could have gone all tits up, in a very bad way. Luckily no cows were harmed in the making of this solo trip mission. 

Once I got to the bottom of the valley I stopped for some food once again. Soon after that, I was pedalling again uphill on the way Cormet de Roseland. This is an alpine pass that connects Bourg St Maurice to Beaufort. At the very top of the Cormet there is a beautiful artificial lake created by a “barrage” for hydropower purposes. In the process of building this, they had to evacuate Roseland, the tiny alpine picture-perfect village located at what is now the bottom of the lake. This is also an iconic Tour de France route / climb. 

My arrival point for the night was the refuge du plan de la Laie. I checked in and the owner was very kind to offer me dinner, which..how could I be so rude to refuse ??? Soup, salad, chicken and rice and tiramisu. I wolfed it down in a blink of an eye and by 9pm I was in bed, tired, happy and content.

Day 3:

Cormet de Roseland to Chamonix.

After an amazing night sleep, I got up and readied myself. Went downstairs for breakfast and as I was eating bread, butter and jam I noticed the morning “rush hour” commuter traffic jam: a massive herd of cows been taken from the alpine meadows down the valley towards the winter huts.

I carried on with my breakfast. As I got ready to leave, I didn’t realise the same herd of cows might still be trotting along on the road.

I stayed behind them, diligently, trying not to make any sudden movement and scared them off..and also, to avoid been told off by the farmers who were quite busy trying to manage the herd and a few “anarchist” cows too.

A couple of kilometres of cow’s poo dodging, amazing views of the Roseland barrage lake, braking most of the time as the road was all downhill, the herd finally turned left and I managed to let go of the brakes and reach a top seed of 58km/h before coming to a complete stop. Found a place where I stopped for a coffee. The owners were sitting outside having their breakfast and she didn’t mind making me an espresso. I knew this was going to be the last and only place until I reached Les Contamines, so I had to take advantage.

It was still very early..around 8:30 am and I was the only person around. They both were quite surprised to see a Mtbiker so early in the day. I told them I was riding the TMB and that today was my last day riding back home to Chamonix. They both were quite impressed to see I was riding a “muscular” enduro mtb and that I started from Chamonix only 2 days ago.

Anyway..coffee down, water bottle refilled and I was off...

Long uphill slog from now on..reached the top and I could see an amazing view of an almost desolate valley. A small lake and a dairy farm in the distance and, what I can only describe as the most gorgeous gravel zig-zag road up a mountain... And I knew I had to climb that road!

The downhill was quite challenging because the trail was there in front me but clearly, it wasn’t used that much..apart from the cows going up and down the pastures.

Nevertheless, I made it down and almost immediately the gravel road went up. So I stipped, took my helmet off, removed my windshell jacket and steady and surely I started the long slog uphill.

I met a few farmers going both down and up then..as I turned right following the gravel path, I stumbled across a second herd of cows gently and happily trotting downhill. I stopped by the side of the road to let them pass. Some of the cows were inquisitive and came up to me to check me out..one of them, in particular, started to lick my left leg...I was quite sweaty so I guess the salts of my sweat were quite delicious to her :-)

Cows gone, I could resume my climbing. As I climbed the view got better and better. I could see the place where I was only 1 hour ago and where I was headed. The very top of the mountains. Col de la Cicle.  The gravel road ended and a hiking trail started..from that point on, it was “hike a bike”..a lot of it..steep, slippery. I could hear the dangling of cows or goat’s bells in the distance but I couldn’t see them.

All of a sudden a massive fighter jet engine roar and bang..two french military fighter jets flew almost right above me..what a sight..and the eco of the engines went on and on for a few seconds.

Finally at the top of the Col and again the views were spectacular. It was now windy and chilly so had to put back on the windshield and wear my gloves.

There was only one way..and it was all downhill. The only problem, there was a lot of sheep or goat poo around so not only I had to pay attention to the trail but especially I had to avoid getting my tyres cacked in poo. Ahhh..the fun of riding alpine trails in late summer :-)

The trail started as a flowy and technical compact soil trail and after 2km the fun part began. White, chalky, exposed rocks made the trail extremely technical and fun to ride. It sort of reminded me of Cap d’Ail near Monaco’, a place famous for Mtb downhill in the early ’90s (sadly, no pictures about this).

I ended up in a farm as the trail basically had to go through the farm..but I couldn’t find my way..so after a few minutes of indecision, I just decided to go over the “fence” and ride through the farm. I thought I was going to be chased by angry shepherd’s dogs but luckily it all went super smooth.

Fast gravel descent then a couple of km of tarmac up to Col du Joly. From this point, the view down towards Les Contamines was simply spectacular. Also, this point marks the border between Savoie and Haute Savoie..there you go, a pill of knowledge for you.

I was desperate for some water as I run out completely. No fountains. No one to ask. Nothing at all. Luckily, after a few minutes, a car arrived so I approached them and ask them if they had any water to spare. Thank God they had a few bottles and they were happy to replenish my water bottle. I knew I was going to find shops and bars once I reached Les Contamines.

Last major section of downhill started and it went from alpine steep gravel into the woods..rooty, muddy, technical, solitary, sometimes a bit spooky. Probably the least enjoyable part of the whole TMB...but I craked on, willing to make it down to Les Contamines before 2pm.

Finally, I was out of the woods and the spaces opened up a bit. Buildings, chalets, fields, a few hikers. Suddenly the gravel road became steeper and steeper and as I was riding downhill I thought to myself “tnx God I am not riding this uphill”.

Brakes were constantly engaged as I couldn’t just ride at full speed. After all, it was a driveable road and I didn’t want to come across a vehicle or mtbikers or hikers.

It was a fun descent for sure :-)

Once on the valley floor..I could relax a bit and just gently pedal. Funny how only less than 2 hours ago I was in the high alpine territory with nothing and no one around me and now I was “back in civilization”.

Once in Les Contamines, I stopped at the local supermarket, bought a sandwich and a coke, sat outside in the sun and enjoyed some rest. I tell you, when you ride as hard as I did in the last few days, you’ll drink and eat anything you see right in front of you :-)

Quick break up..time to jump back on the saddle and carry on pedalling towards St. Gervais / Le Fayet.

I actually knew what the trail was going to be like because I rode with a friend in August. The trail mostly followed the river banks. It was a nice, rolling, fast, rideable trail with no one in sight. I was actually surprised to see how deserted it was. Passing through small hamlets and farms, a few short bursts uphill followed by quick, full blast descents sections..

I felt the end of my trip was almost there ..the more I continued to ride, the more “into civilization” I was going into and before I knew it I was in St Gervais a quaint town, very famous in the 1800s for the local spas visited by many wealthy European tourists of that era.

The last section of my journey was a fast blast downhill on the tarmac to Le Fayet where I took the train back to Chamonix.

It has been a wonderful experience. The kind of experience that somehow, changes how you see mtbiking and how you see yourself.