STOVES AND FUELS...what’s / what are the best option/s for bikpeacking?

Hello boys and girls. I hope everyone is keeping well, safe and healthy.
I know the situation in Italy due to the Covid-19 is very very serious at this particular moment in time.
Stay positive and hopeful. The light at the end of the tunnel is visible and we’ll be out of this very soon.
Since we all have a lot of time in our hands (the time we can use to learn and do new things),
I wanted to investigate something that, as a chef and a bikpeacker, it is very important to me:
Stoves, burners and fuel canister.
I recently got asked..” Mario, what’s the best stove?”.
It would be very easy to answer it by saying..” this brand and model”..but I’m afraid it takes more than
just that in order to explain what really is the best stove and set up.
See, the moment you ask me “what’s the best stove”..a gazillion other questions come into play.
The reason why I say this is because..it’s not just about the best stove itself but above all, what is your
ultimate use for a stove? What is your bikepacking trip going to be like? How long?
What time of the year? How many times will you be bikpeacking in a year?
Will you be using the stove also for backpacking, mountaineering, van-life, camping, fishing trips etc..etc..?
To better understand which stove to buy / use we need to first understand what those stoves are and
how they work...this could be a daunting task considering the humongous choices available in the
market today.
So to start with, I categorised them into three unique styles: Gas canisters; Alcohol; Liquid fuel.



STOVES
Gas canister stoves:
- Integrated 
- Remote 
      -     Alcohol stoves
      -     Liquid fuel stoves

Secondly, you also need to identify the intended use: I am referring to the type of trip/adventure you
are planning. Is it going to be a solo, super light weekender? Maybe still a solo mission, longer than
just a couple of days, self-supported and remote? Or maybe will you be riding with a friend or two and
are planning to cook every meal from scratch? Every scenario has to be taken into account to simply
make the best-informed choice.


USE
- Solo and super light mission
- Solo self-supported
- Couple or small group

Gas canister stoves: 
They are easy to use and low-maintenance. They screw onto the threaded tops of closed fuel canisters
that contain two pre-pressurized gases: isobutane and propane. Some of these stoves are incredibly
small, lightweight, fold up compactly to minimise space.

Integrated canister systems: 
These tall-profile cooking systems feature a burner that screws onto the fuel canister and pairs
seamlessly with a twist-on, insulated cooking pot and a lid with drain holes and/or a pour/sip hole.
In general, they’re designed to boil water quickly, not cook and simmer foods (though some models
let you use a different pot from the one that comes with the set, and newer versions may be shorter
and wider and easier to eat from). They boil water fast and efficiently, in part thanks to a built-in
windscreen. Some of these stoves also have a built-in pressure regulator that allows for consistent
performance in low temperatures and at higher elevations. However, compared to standard canister
stoves, the integrated system is heavier, more expensive and prone to tip-overs.

Remote canister stoves: 
This type of stove sits on its own base and has a fuel hose that connects it to the canister.
hey typically pack down small and are lightweight, though you’ll add a few more ounces and bulk
compared to a standard canister stove.
On some models, the canister can be used in an inverted position to improve cold-weather
performance. These stoves may have wider support arms for large-pot stability.
A windscreen may be used with off-canister stoves.
A canister (either comes in a screw-in cartridge or a drill cartridge) is the most common source of fuel
for bikpeacking / backpacking and general camping cooking. Available in every part of the World and
in different formats of weight (ranging from 100gr; 230gr; 450gr)
There are several types of natural gas canisters in the market. Let’s have a closer look.

Butane / Propane mix:
A mixture of top quality butane (70%) and propane (30%), which promotes the stove's performance,
even in adverse weather conditions. The cartridges are protected from damage by an innovative
protective cap, which also indicates whether the cartridge has already been used or whether it is new.

Isobutane / Propane mix:
is an optimized fuel mixture that reduces soot and blockages. It features an 80/20 mixture of
isobutane and propane and contains the purest isobutane (5% butane or less).
This smokeless burning mixture maintains a higher internal pressure at lower temperatures than
conventional butane/propane mixtures. It ensures outstanding performance in cold weather and a
more constant performance overall.

Pros:
-They’re small and lightweight.
-They’re quick to light. No priming is necessary before lighting a canister stove. Simply turn the valve and light with a
match, lighter or piezo-igniter.
-The flame adjusts easily and simmers well (most models).
-The canister self-seals when you unscrew the stove, so there’s no worry about spills and leaks.
-Some canister stoves have a built-in pressure regulator to provide consistent heat output throughout the life of the
canister. This improves cold weather and high-elevation performance, too.
Cons:
-Their arms may not be long enough to hold large pots securely.
-A windscreen should not be used with an on-canister stove because it can trap excessive heat and lead to fuel exploding.
-In cold weather, canisters can depressurize and produce a weak flame (unless the stove has a pressure regulator)
-Compared to liquid-fuel stoves, the cost of fuel is greater.
-Canister waste: Empty canisters need to be disposed of properly; you’ll want to research recycling options near you.


Alcohol stove:
Scandinavians are among the best when it comes to designing for the outdoors, and alcohol stoves
are no exception. Their most famous alcohol stove is the Trangia.
By definition, an alcohol stove is a stove that uses alcohol as it's fuel source. ... Unlike traditional
bikepacking / camping stoves that use gas or liquid fuel, the alcohol stove uses readily-available
alcohol sources very easy to find and purchase in any groceries / DIY stores in Europe and the rest
of the World.
There two types of alcohol that can be used (primarily in the Trangia cook system)

Denatured alcohol (also called methylated spirit) and Tenol, which are low cost, safe to use and readily
available. They are sometimes dyed violet or pink so that it can be identified visually. 
In addition, you only need to carry a bottle of alcohol sized to meet your trip needs.


Pros:
-Denatured alcohol stoves have few parts that would require maintenance.
-Denatured alcohol is inexpensive and relatively easy to find.
-The fuel burns silently.
Cons:
-Alcohol does not burn as hot as canister fuel or white gas, so it takes longer to boil water and requires more fuel.
-A windscreen is often a must.





Liquid fuel stoves:
All liquid-fuel stoves run on white gas, which is highly refined to have few or no impurities. It burns
hot and clean, performs well in below-freezing temperatures and, compared to the per-ounce cost
of canister fuel, is much less expensive.
Some multi-fuel stoves can also run on some or all of the following: unleaded gasoline, kerosene,
jet fuel or diesel. 
Fuel versatility makes multi-fuel stoves a great choice for international/long-distance expedition
bikepackers who face limited fuel choices.

 
There are two main downsides to liquid-fuel stoves:

- Most require priming, which involves igniting a few drips of fuel in a cup below the burner, creating a
small flame that preheats the fuel line. This enables the stove to convert liquid fuel into a vapour.
You will need to pump your fuel bottle, too, to increase pressure.

- They also require periodic maintenance, such as cleaning the fuel hose or replacing O-rings
(in the stove and on fuel bottles). There may be many little parts and pieces to keep track of.


Pros:
-Liquid-fuel stoves tend to be low-profile and offer greater stability on uneven ground.
-It’s easy to tell how much fuel you have left by peering into the fuel bottle.
-While you do have to buy a fuel bottle, there’s no canister to discard.
-These stoves perform better than other options at high elevations and in cold temperatures.
Cons:
-Priming and maintenance are required.
-Fuel spills are possible.
-They tend to be heavier than canister stoves.
-Multi-fuel stoves can cost a bit more.
-Fuels other than white gas have more impurities that may, over time, clog stove parts such as the fuel tube.




Tips for any stove:

Do NOT cook inside tents or enclosed spaces. This can cause carbon monoxide poisoning and create a high fire risk.
Check all fuel lines, valves and connections for leaks or damage before lighting your stove.
Operate your stove on the most level surface possible.
Bring a multi-tool with pliers in case you need to do any field repairs on your stove.
If your stove comes with a sparkler-igniter, it’s still a good idea to always carry stormproof matches in case the sparkler fails.


Tips for canister stoves:

New fuel canisters usually contain a small amount of air near the top; after this bleeds off, the fuel will flow and ignite.
(If the stove tips, a large yellow flame-up may occur.)
In cold temps, keep the canister warm by putting it in your sleeping bag at night. Warmth helps keep the pressure up.
A stove with a pressure regulator will burn more efficiently at higher elevations so you won’t waste fuel.
When cooking on snow, use a piece of foam underneath the canister for insulation or you’ll end up with a chunk of ice frozen
to the bottom.
Recycling:
Some places allow you to recycle your spent fuel canisters. (Previously, they were often considered hazardous
waste.) Check with your local recycler to make sure they take them.

Tips for liquid-fuel stoves:

If you can, use alcohol for priming. It helps to keep your stove soot-free.
Don't fill a fuel tank to the brim. Leave room for the air you pump in to pressurize it. Also, fuel expands as it warms,
so leaving an air space prevents excessive pressure buildup.
Empty the fuel tank before storing your stove for several months or longer.
Use a windscreen.
Consider using a heat exchanger for cold weather or extended trips—this metal collar channels heat to the pot for faster
boiling and saves fuel.
Don't spill fuel on bare skin. In extreme cold, this can cause frostbite due to the rapid evaporation of fuel.
White gas is known to degrade over time. If using aged white gas (not advised), use a filter to strain out any tiny sediment
that might be lurking within and clog your stove. If older white gas shows a tint of colour, that’s often a sign it’s past its prime.







 


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